Slowing down on the XPT between Melbourne and Sydney

Pam Temby discovers the many advantages of travelling on the  XPT train service between Melbourne and Sydney especially if travelling in a first class sleeper compartment.

It was all planned. A meandering road trip, towing our caravan north from Melbourne to visit friends in Sydney and the Blue Mountains. And then fuel prices hit the roof due to the Middle East conflict. Disappointingly we cancelled the roadie idea, but a chance conversation about the XPT train to Sydney got us thinking. An overnight first-class sleeper could be just the ticket!

Online research regarding ticket prices and availability found it was recommended to book the sleeper well in advance, as they sell out fast. The XPT between Melbourne and Sydney only offers nine Sleeper Cars with capacity for two beds per compartment. No wonder they get snapped up!

Sleeping Car bookings can only be made via phone with the NSW TrainLink booking centre. After chatting with the very friendly customer service operator, we managed to book our return journey around the dates we requested by nabbing the last sleeper on both legs! Our concession return fare was $360 each, on par with a return flight. The luggage allowance is more generous than most airlines with 2 x 20 kgs per person plus hand luggage.

Having never travelled first-class sleeper before, I am not embarrassed to say there was a touch of excitement in our household. However, whether our 11 hour or so rail journey would stack up against an hour-long flight, remained to be seen.

We decided to go “full PT” on our departure date, taking the train from our local suburban station to Melbourne’s Southern Cross Station. With Victoria’s current public transport offering, it was a no-brainer. It was relaxing, easy and far cheaper than a taxi or Uber to the airport; no airport queues, check-ins and departure lounge crowds. Advantage train travel #1.

First Impressions

Our train pulled into Southern Cross Platform 1 a little late, but the disembarkation, cleaning and restocking of the train was quick and we were soon boarding. My first impression, as we made our way to our compartment, was how clean and new looking the carriage was. The carpets and upholstery had no sign at all of wear and tear. We were later told that although the XPT’s have been in service since 1982, trains undergo a refurbishment program to ensure they stay fit for purpose, before they are eventually replaced by a new fleet.

What a lovely surprise it was to have welcome packs greet us when we entered our sleeper compartment; a toiletry bag with toothbrush, toothpaste, ear plugs (yikes!), a comb, moisturiser and sleeping mask. We also had a fluffy towel each and a snack pack with treats and a small bottle of water.  It was reminiscent of my first flight to Europe in the early 80’s when these accoutrements were standard on international economy flights. Alas, not anymore. Well certainly not on the economy flights I take!  The gesture was a wonderful way to start our journey. Advantage train travel #2.

One word of advice. There is only one 240V power outlet in the first-class sleeper compartment and no USB charging port. You must BYO charger and cable. There is no WI FI service on the train and mobile coverage is sporadic throughout the trip. No doubt this will be rectified when the new XPT fleet is built, slated for full roll out between 2026 to 2029. In the meantime, bring a book or download for your listening pleasure before you travel.

The Service

Our train pulled out at 8.20pm, about half an hour late, and it wasn’t long before our friendly Passenger Attendant knocked on our compartment door to welcome us on board.

He went through the details of our journey, the buffet car offerings and directed us to press the Assistance Button whenever needed and to get help with our bed “turn down”.   Our complimentary breakfast order was taken, and we were good to go.

Soon after a jovial voice over the loudspeaker announced himself as the Senior Passenger Assistant for the journey. He welcomed all on board, went through emergency procedures, the facilities and the hot meals available at the buffet car. With a smile in his voice, he apologised that the hot meals would take an hour to heat up “in our 1980’s oven” and needed to be ordered in advance. His welcome and delivery were what I would call “good old fashioned Aussie country hospitality” rather than air steward efficiency. From my end Advantage train travel #3.

Meals and Snacks

The Buffet Car provides a selection of food and drinks and was open throughout the night except when the staff changed over in Albury.

As we did not require dinner, we opted to just wander down to the buffet car to see what took our fancy.  I had envisaged a dining car with linen tablecloths and pulling up a stool at the bar for a Scotch night cap. Perhaps informed by looking at photos of the Orient Express and the Royal Scotsman prior to the trip! I was a little disappointed when I saw it was more like a fancy tuck shop with no seating. My disappointment was promptly curbed when I a) remembered I wasn’t on the Orient Express and b) the food looked good. There was plenty of choice including a selection of gourmet pies, sandwiches and rolls, breakfast packs, salads, snacks and sweets, soft drink and juice varieties, and beer, wine and a few spirit premixes. Advantage train travel # 4.

The friendly Passenger Attendant proudly told us the catering had recently changed to a Dubbo company with food locally sourced. The hot meals (an hour wait) included Chicken Cacciatore, Spaghetti Bolognaise, Butter Chicken and Thai Vegetable Curry.

We chose fresh fruit salad and yoghurt which was delicious and fresh.

The Sleeper

The First Class Sleeper compartments are set up as a three-seater, so there was plenty of room for the two of us. The compartment also doubles as a Daysitter during the day service.  When used as a Sleeper, the three seats are flipped into one bed, and the upper berth is pulled down from the wall. After our stroll to the buffet car and a read, we were ready for the bed “turn down”. I was enthralled to see how this compartment would be converted to our bedroom.

The Passenger Attendant came within a couple of minutes of us pressing the assistance button, and the conversion to our bedroom was like magic. In a few minutes we had ready-made-up beds with a narrow but manageable ladder. As the lighter, younger and nimbler, I took the upper berth.  I was told by my partner the bottom bed had a tad more length.

The beds are single and each has a night light and a nook for storage, big enough for a book, glasses and phone. The sheets are crisp and white, the doona cover ticked off the Goldilocks rule – not too light and not too heavy, and each bed had two pillows. Advantage train travel # 5. 

I found the bed firm and relatively comfortable. But for those close to or over 190cm may find the bed short and cramped as there is no room to hang your feet over the end. I have a slight back problem, but sleep came quickly and I drifted off to the gentle sounds and soothing rocking. I woke up a few times during the night but didn’t find the journey particularly noisy and had no need for the ear plugs provided. I woke at station pickups or from gentle jolting which I considered all part of the slow travel train experience.

I love great use of a small space with nifty design for access and storage. The sleeper compartment and shared bathroom have it in spades. The bathroom, in my opinion is ingenious with sections that pull out and clip away – you get the idea. In one rather small space there is a mirror, a toilet, a wash basin and a shower, with only one temperature; not too hot and not too cold. That Goldilocks rule again. A deftly placed shower curtain keeps your towel and toiletries dry.  I am 153 centimeters and my partner 186 centimeters and the space was just fine for us.  If you are on the bigger side, it may be a tight fit. A small sign in our compartment conveniently lit up when the bathroom was in use.

The sleeper compartment had ample space for our two small suitcases which we stored in the overhead storage space. Two narrow storage cupboards held our coats and backpacks, and a rail and coat hooks neatly stored our towels, jumpers and hats.

Big windows provide lots of light and an exterior view and were curtained at night. The window ledge held our treats, and two tidy storage doors were for rubbish and removable table trays. The compartment is small, but we found it very comfortable. Advantage train travel #6. 

As the expected arrival in Sydney Central was 6.20am brekky was served early. We were up bright and early at 5.30am. After a shower we wandered down to the buffet car for a coffee. Unfortunately, the train is not a Melbourne laneway café so we couldn’t order a strong latte and instead had to do with a Vittoria coffee bag and UHT milk.  It was as you would expect, but as a Melbourne coffee snob, I have had worse.

Back in our compartment, bright eyed and bushy tailed, our friendly Passenger Attendant swung by and converted our beds back to our Day Seater set up. The sun was up and our curtains drawn just in time for our complimentary breakfast delivery.

The fruit salad and yoghurt from the night before was so good, we bought another to go with our breakfast which was a simple fare of Corn Flakes, a juice box and a choice of tea (English Breakfast or Earl Grey), coffee or hot chocolate.

The destination and the verdict

We pulled into the heritage listed Grand Concourse, Sydney Central Station around 7.15am, showered, fed, rested and relaxed. I absolutely felt the benefits of slow travel and was surprised at how good I felt and how great it was to pull into a bustling train station rather than an airport. I had none of the fuzzy weird high altitude feeling I often get when I have flown. There was no luggage collection, no taxi or Uber wrangling. Instead, we strolled leisurely from one platform to another and on to our train bound for the Blue Mountains. Advantage train travel #7. 

Our journey back to Melbourne was a cookie-cutter experience, with a few exceptions. The staff, with chests puffed up, told us that our Sydney to Melbourne XPT was special as it had undergone a “retro revival” returning to the tracks for the first time after a major refurbishment. To be perfectly honest I thought the interior of our outbound XPT was just as good.

However, this “City of Grafton” train caried iconic heritage colours that defined the XPT when it was first launched in the early 80’s.  The train enthusiasts were certainly out in force as we departed Sydney, and as we pulled into Southern Cross Station to a fan base with phones snapping away at our shiny new train.

The welcoming party had to wait a good two hours as we ran very late due to train line works. Luckily, we weren’t in any hurry and sat back and relaxed.

Travelling in Autumn meant we travelled in the dark mostly. The possibility of a glorious sunset and sunrise and more time to view the passing scenery would have made the trip even better. A trip for another time.

Was the 11 hour+ train trip worth it over an hour-long flight? Absolutely.

A “feel good” factor is a Melbourne to Sydney flight creates far more greenhouse gas emissions than the same trip by train. Our version of a fast train may not compare with Europe’s “bullet trains” for speed, but if you have the time and desire to slow down, the XPT First Class sleeper is the ticket.  Advantage train travel #8

The Transport New South Wales website provides more information on XPT destinations, facilities and carriage layouts and  Sleeper Cabins 

As prices can vary according to concessions, seasons and promotions it is best to check online as a starting point. In general, Sleeper bookings cost an extra $88 per person on top of the First Class fare. If you are travelling on your own, you will need to share. If you prefer to have exclusive use of a sleeper compartment, you will pay for the full berth.  Bookings can only be made by calling 13 22 32.

Pam Temby travelled on the XPT in April 2026.

*Photo credit: Pam Temby.